There
are 4 more small rivers off the western shore over the next 20-22 miles before
the Susquehanna River and the town of Havre de Grace, which lies at the northwest
edge of the Chesapeake Bay. South of the
Susquehanna is the Aberdeen Proving Ground, where the army does testing on
newly developed weapons. Since it was
Saturday, we didn’t have to be concerned about any testing.
The
eastern shore is a more sparsely populated farming area. Small, shallow rivers and creeks can be
explored by smaller boats. We entered
the Elk River which will take us to the C&D Canal. Range lights in the river help to keep boats
on course in the channel. It was here
where Captain Randy said that we had now traveled 3900 miles since leaving
Chicago last August. We passed another
lighthouse to the port. This is a very
picturesque area, with beautiful shores and lots of small pleasure boats
darting around the river and up the numerous creeks. I was starting to feel like I was in the
north again.
The river started to narrow as we approach Chesapeake City. Just west of the Chesapeake City Bridge is a Coast Guard Station, We went under the bridge and entered Delaware – the 12th state we have visited (not counting Illinois or Indiana) on our trip.
The C&D Canal is a 12 mile long man-made waterway, connecting the Delaware Bay to the Delaware River. It is 450 feet wide and 35 feet deep and used by commercial, military and recreational traffic. There are 6 bridges and the banks are tree-lined. There were fewer “no wake” zones than we expected and we motored right along. We turned into the Delaware City Branch Channel and were docked at the Delaware City Marina by 12:20 pm.
There
is not much of a town left here, as it is just off the C&D Canal. Shopping is very limited so we got ice cream
and strolled the shore until the 3:00 pm ferry over to Pea Patch Island and
Fort Delaware. The Fort was built in the
mid-1800’s to protect the River and Philadelphia. No defensive shots were ever fired though and
it became the largest prisoner-of-war camp for Confederate soldiers during the
Civil War. It housed 33,000 over the
course of the war in 52 barracks built outside the fort. Each one had three levels of bunks and served
as home for 200 men. All of the
outbuildings are gone, but there is a reproduction of one of the bunkhouses.
The
fort is the most well-preserved in the US for its age which made it very
interesting to tour. There are rooms set
up as kitchens, laundry, officer’s rooms, commissary and ammunitions
procurement. A set of actors
demonstrates rifle and mortar firing and other programs. It was a very interesting afternoon in
military history (again). We even saw an eagle!
In the 1890's, part of the inside of the fort was removed and a new type of fortification and a three gun battery were built inside the "front" of the fort. It was made of concrete and rocks (instead of bricks). This area of the fort is not a normal part of the tour because bats use the area to roost. We were fortunate enough to be allowed to tour the area and we quickly saw why bats like the area - it is very dark and damp.
When
we returned to the mainland, the park at the ferry dock was filled with old
cars; a car show was in full swing. We
were tired and hungry, so we only spent a few minutes here before dinner at
Crabby Dick’s. We sat on the outside
patio, listening to R&B by the Turner Brother’s Band. The place was jumping, probably due to the
car show traffic. Captain Randy worked
his way through a half dozen hard-shell crabs while I had mussels and
crab/shrimp flatbread.
I
still had laundry to do when we got back to the boat. I met a friendly Englishman in the laundry
room. He keeps his sailboat at the
Delaware City Marina but lives in England.
We enjoyed chatting for over an hour until my laundry was dry.
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